The Beginners Brewpot

by Richard Grzelak

October 1994

The Beers of Britain

Unlike most other nations, Great Britain, and the British Isles, have been slow in adapting and accepting lager beers. Although they have been brewing bottom fermenting beers since 1882, it has not been until recently that they have become acceptable, and even now, lager drinkers are looked upon with some scorn by traditionalists who identify them with "hooligan soccer supporters" according to Michael Jackson in his "New World Guide to Beer".

Perhaps this is because Britain is an island nation, but it more likely that the native beers are so good. With the possible exception of Belgium, probably no other nation has as much variety, and, not surprisingly, both nations are strongholds of tradition in that top-fermenting beers have remained popular. The British Isles are, after all, the home of barley wines, porters, stouts, bitter, brown, pale, and mild ales.

Traditionally, ale is cask-conditioned, that is, delivered from the brewery while it still fermenting. Because of this, no two batches will ever be the same because the ultimate flavor of an ale is determined by any number of factors, handling being especially important. As a result of the active fermentation, the flavor of the beer will even change from day to day. This is most likely the reason that an amazing 85 percent of all beer consumed in England and Ireland is in a pub or restaurant, and this includes lagers. No other nation is even close in terms of percentage consumed outside of the home.

Recognizing the increasing popularity of lager beers in Great Britain, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) was founded in 1971, so that the traditional beers could be saved. Although not completely successful, the percentage of cask conditioned ales served has remained relatively stable for the last twenty years, after nearly a century of declines. Also, the organization has served to educate the general public and elevate the status of beer within that nation.

Because of their simplicity, most beginning homebrewers will make either a bitter or a brown ale as their initial beer. This is a fine choice because these beers tend to produce complex flavors, and they are usually drinkable in less than a month, patience in brewing being an acquired virtue. Another advantage of the ales is that they are generally darker and bolder than many of the lagers, and as a result, many flaws that would otherwise be apparent are masked.

At one time, porter was the style favored in the British Isles, however dry stouts became so dominant that the style all but disappeared about twenty years ago. Unfortunately, the exact method of producing a porter, as it was originally brewed, has been lost to history. It is thought that these beers were high in gravity, and probably similar to the Imperial Stouts brewed today. Modern Porter is medium in gravity (1040-1050), black, and dry. As with stouts, it should have some coffee like flavors, but unlike stouts, it should be fruity. It is not as bitter as a stout, and not as full bodied. There should also be a chocolate presence.

Stouts, being a direct descendant of porters, are very similar. Divided into three major groups, dry, Imperial, and Sweet (or milk), the dry version of the style is the most popular. Guinness is probably the most widely known example of a dry stout, and is perhaps the most available. Draught Guinness is unpasteurized, and tapped with a mixture of nitrogen and carbon dioxide. This mixture results in a creamy head. The beer itself is opaque black, dry, and bitter with coffee-like overtones. Despite dark, it is a pleasant year-round beer.

Imperial stouts were discussed in an earlier column, but as a rule, they tend to be high gravity versions of their cousins. Almost espresso-like, they often have a vinous character. These beers were originally made for export, and are best served during the depths of winter.

Pale ales, and their subgroup, bitters, are generally dry, and hoppy. They tend to be medium bodied, and range in color from copper to amber. As the name implies, bitters are well hopped during the boil, although the use of aromatics are limited. If the Irish are identified with stout, the rest of the British Isles can be identified with bitter.

Pale ales are differentiated from bitters in that they tend to have more aromatic hops. Gravities are generally moderate, although there is quite a range within the class. For example, India Pale Ale, a beer originally made for export, is fairly alcoholic and bitter, but tends to have some aromatics. Pale ales and bitters are among the more popular styles produced by home brewers, mostly because of the ease of production, and the limited availability of fresh versions of the style.

Brown ales tend to be malty, moderately hopped, and somewhat sweet. In some cases, a fruitiness that is currant-like is associated with the style. These make very pleasant dessert beers, and because of their inherent gentleness, make a fine accompaniment to rich foods. They tend to range in color from brown to copper, and are well bodied. Some examples of the style are fairly high in gravity, although, for the most part, gravity will range from 1030 to 1050. As with many of the British beers, these are fairly pleasant year-round.

Old ales and barley wines are similar in that they tend to be very high in gravity Color is not a major factor in these beers as they can range from almost black to amber. These are the most traditional of the British beers, and there are numerous variations within each style. Because of their gravities, they should age at least six months before they are served and are best consumed in winter.

Scottish ales are very similar in profile to Octoberfest beers in that they are moderately high in gravity, malty, and copper in color. Because they are top-fermented, they tend to be fruitier than their continental cousins. They tend to be slightly more bitter than a brown ale.

Mild ales are usually thought of as weaker versions of the brown ale. They were originally brewed as a lunch-time refreshment for the coal-miners, and although they are said to be quite tasty, they are fairly low in gravity.

Given the great variety of styles available, it is not surprising that the British Isles have remained a stronghold of traditional beers. The relatively short cycle between brewpot
and bar makes them particularly attractive for both the novice and experienced brewer, and these beers are well worth exploring.

For more on CAMRA: www.camra.org.uk