The Beginners Brewpot

by Richard Grzelak

June 1994

Introduction to Water

Water is the key component of beer, accounting for over 90% of the finished product. Because it is so important, there has been much debate over the years over relatively minor differences in its chemical composition, particularly as a way of marketing commercial beer.

Practically, there are only three basic flavors of water, hard, soft, and neutral. An example of a neutral water would be any water that was distilled, removing any dissolved minerals. The softer the water, the greater degree in which soap bubbles will form in solution. Conversely, the harder the water, the greater degree in which precipitates will form upon boiling.

The water in the Milwaukee area has been classified as "temporarily hard", meaning that carbonates of magnesium and calcium are present in the water. It is fairly interesting to note that the waters of Milwaukee, Munich, Pilsen, and Dublin, are all very similar in terms of their mineral content, and it is not too surprising that all these cities have great brewing traditions.

Generally speaking, soft water is best for dark beers such as stouts and dark ales, while hard water tends to work best with lighter beers such as pilseners. The differences in the finished product tend to be very subtle.

Minute quantities of certain minerals in the water can affect the beer greatly. Sulfur salts, although helpful in wine making, are definitely not recommended for use in beer. In addition to making the beer taste salty and harsh, they are slightly laxative. The also can hinder hop utilization.

Sodium chloride, table salt, can round out the taste of beer, and make it sweeter, but if used in excess, can contribute a metallic taste. Charlie Papazian, in "THE COMPLETE JOY OF HOME BREWING" recommends that no more than 1/2 teaspoon of salt be added to a 5 gallon batch. Gypsum can be used to soften the water as well as promote yeast sedimentation. It also promotes the breakdown of proteins and tannins during the boil, resulting in a clearer beer. Because gypsum is composed of calcium and sulfur, it is important to remember that there can indeed be too much of a good thing, and the sulfur can have a negative impact on the finished product.

Epsom salt, Magnesium Sulfate, is occasionally added to the water when a lighter beer is being made to make the water harder, and again, no more than 112 teaspoon is recommended for a 5 gallon batch.

One advantage that kit or extract brewers have over all grain brewers is that they normally will not have to get involved with water chemistry, as most manufacturers add the necessary minerals to the concentrate. Because they are mass produced, however, the disadvantage is that when mixed with local water, the final chemistry may be all wrong for the type of beer desired.

As with all the other aspects of brewing, the all-grain brewer can exercise a greater influence on the beer than the extract brewer simply by varying the chemistry of the water. It is strongly recommended that before attempting to do so, a water profile be obtained from the local water utility.

Ordinary tap water can be used to make beer, however, some brewers object to the chlorine taste in the water. If this is the case, pour the water into a sterile bucket, and allow it to sit for a few days. For the most part, this really is not necessary.
Although the mineral content of the water will determine, to a certain extent, the clarity of the beer, proper protein breaks are much more important. There are two points in the brewing process during which these protein breaks occur. The first, and probably the messiest, is the hot break. This happens just around the time of boil-over, that is the brief period of time when the boil in the wort is at its most furious.

Careful monitoring of the The Beginners Brewpot will prevent boil-over. As the foam in the wort starts to rise, turn down the heat slightly, and stir the wort rapidly. In a moment or so, the foam will start to recede, and a slow boil will be evident. This is the hot break, and it is proof that some of the proteins in the beer are broken.

The cold break occurs when the boiling wort is rapidly cooled. Properly done the wort will be brought from boiling to about 70 degrees Fahrenheit in about 15 minutes. Protein breaks are more important to the whole grain brewer than to the extract brewer, but in both cases, the possibility of clear beer is greatly enhanced.
Occasionally, other clarifying agents are added to the beer. These include Irish Moss, Gelatin, Isinglass, and Polyclar, gelatin and Irish Moss being the most common. Directions for the use of these agents can be obtained at the local brewers supply shop.

Chill haze will sometimes happen upon cooling of the beer. The beer becomes cloudy upon cooling, but this only affects the appearance, and not the flavor of the beer. There are two basic ways in which this can be minimized in a beer which is susceptible to haze. The first is to simply put the beer into the refrigerator no more than 45 minutes before drinking. This will allow the beer sufficient time for the beer to become cool, and minimize the possibility of haze forming. The second is to allow the beer to sit undisturbed in the refrigerator for a week or two. In time, the proteins in the beer will settle to the bottom.

Probably the best book for the home-brewer about water
chemistry is "THE COMPLETE HANDBOOK OF HOMEBREWING by Dave Miller, and it is strongly suggested for those who wish to wade into the subject fuller.